K.D. Kemp’s Complete Guide to Collecting Physical Media

So you’ve decided you’d like to start collecting physical media. Maybe you’ve grown tired of streaming platforms deleting content without warning. Maybe you’d like to lead a more analog lifestyle. Maybe you want to watch a niche TV show that isn’t available to stream online. Maybe you just like the aesthetic of listening to your favorite album on a vintage Walkman. Whatever your reason, this guide will help you get started collecting, preserving, and enjoying physical media.

First things first - what is physical media? It might seem like stating the obvious, but physical media is a tangible counterpoint to digital media. Any form of information or entertainment that you can literally hold in your hands like a book, CD, video game cartridge, or videocassette is considered physical media. Unlike streaming or downloading something from the Internet, physical media requires you to interact with it in the real world. Collecting physical media isn’t just about having access to something on your terms, it allows you to own a piece of cultural history at a time when more and more things are moving to subscription service.

What Should I Collect?


To get started collecting physical media, you should first decide what format you’d like to collect. For movies and TV shows this could mean Betamax or VHS tapes, DVDs, Blu-rays, and even LaserDiscs. For music this may include vinyl records, 8 tracks, cassettes, and CDs. Even books, magazines, and video games are considered physical media!

Each media type has its own pros and cons. Do you intend just to preserve and display your collection or would you also like to be able to use your collection? Key factors to consider include the devices necessary to play these media types, storage space, and cost. We’ll go through each of these for different media types. If you’d like to jump to a section, click the specific media type you are interested in or download my free PDF below!
I personally collect vinyl records, cassette tapes, and CDs for my music, and VHS tapes and DVDs for my movies and TV shows. Occasionally I will buy a Blu-ray or special edition release that contains multiple formats, like a recent purchase of Little Darlings I got from Vinegar Syndrome. I also collect old Windows PC games and books from my childhood.

I typically purchase the item in the format I would have used growing up or the dominant format at the time the media was released, so I tend to buy music from the 1970s and earlier exclusively on vinyl, music from the 1980s on cassette, and music from the 1990s and later on CD. Sometimes if I reeeeeeeeally love something, I’ll look for it on every format I can find which is how I wound up with four copies of the Big Top Pee-wee soundtrack!

Where Should I Buy Physical Media?


For In-Person Options:
  • Antique stores
  • Record stores
  • Thrift stores
  • Used bookstores
  • Flea markets / Swap meets
  • Garage / Estate Sales
  • Friends of the Library Sales
  • Facebook Marketplace (local pickup)
    • Online:
  • eBay
  • Discogs
  • Etsy
  • Mercari
  • Thriftbooks
  • Facebook Marketplace (shipping option)
  • Instagram claim sales
  • Boutique labels (Criterion Collection, Vinegar Syndrome, Shout Factory, etc.)

    • What Should I Watch Out For?


    Betamax/Cassettes/VHS and other magnetic media - MOLD! Unfortunately I’ve had my run of bad luck with buying former rental tapes whose stickers obscure the window to view the tape’s condition. If I can’t verify the condition of the tape, I don’t buy it! If you have a moldy tape in your collection and you do not want to get rid of it, put it into a plastic bag and store it separately from the rest of your collection. Do NOT play the tape in the same device you play your other tapes or they will be infected. Some tapes are also prone to stick shed syndrome [LINK], where the binder that holds the magnetic particles to the tape breaks down. Also keep in mind the risk is in the name with magnetic media. Exposure to magnetic fields (speakers, electric motors, etc.) can degrade the signal quality or erase the tape entirely. Pay attention to the video signal format (NTSC for North America and Japan, and PAL/SECAM for Europe and parts of Asia) which will impact playback.
    What about mold cleaners? There are a handful of methods for cleaning mold off of tapes to salvage them and make them playable, or at the very least to prevent them from ruining the rest of your collection. Look for my guide coming soon on how to mitigate mold in VHS tapes!

    CDs/DVDs/Blu-Rays/LaserDiscs - Scratches and surface damage will be your biggest concern. Some of these are superficial and can be easily cleaned with a lint-free cloth and some distilled water or high purity (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol. You may also buy commercial disc cleaning solutions. There are multiple layers to a disk and the data layer is distinct from the bottom plastic layer. Scratches or other damage to the data layer or reflective layer cannot be repaired, while scratches to the plastic layer can typically be salvaged. Some stores will offer to resurface your disks for you when you buy them. This shaves of a thin piece of the plastic layer, so it is not advised to do this more than once or twice.
    Some stores tape their items closed to prevent theft and mix-ups. Ask to check the item before you make a purchase to confirm it’s in good condition. Discs don’t mold, but they are also susceptible to a kind of rot where the chemical breakdown of the reflective layer causes pitting, discoloration, or tiny divots. The data loss from this is irreversible.
    DVDs and Blu-rays are often region-locked, which means they can only be played on a device manufactured for that region or a region-free player. There are some ways around this, but the process can be complicated and the legality questionable. LaserDiscs are not region-locked, but their video signal format may differ (NTSC for North America and Japan, and PAL/SECAM for Europe and parts of Asia).
    Books/Magazines - Look for loose bindings or missing pages, writing or highlighting, torn pages or covers, yellowing from acidification, and a musty smell. There is a big difference between the light odor of a used book which often smells a little bit like toner cartridge from the ink and slightly sweet from the wood pulp, and a musty book which smells like laundry that was accidentally left in the washing machine for too long. Once you catch that first whiff of a truly musty item, you’ll never forget it. Some items also hold on to the scent of cigarette or cigar smoke if they were stored in a smoker’s home. If you’re buying online, a seller will usually state if the item does have an odor and whether or not it’s coming from a smoke-free or pet-free home. If the seller doesn’t include a note about the smell, you can always message them to confirm.
    How Much Should I Pay?
    This is a touchy subject because the rise in popularity for collecting physical media has led to an increased demand, which has driven up the cost whether you’re buying in-person or online. That doesn’t mean all hope is lost! Where you buy makes a difference. A thrift store or garage sale will typically cost less than a record store or antique store. In-person will typically cost less than online. With a little digging and patience, you can still score some great deals both in-person and online.
    My decision on how much to pay depends on who I am buying it from. If a corporate thrift store is charging $20 for a hard to find VHS tape, I probably won’t buy it. By comparison, if my local video store is selling the same tape for $20, I’ll happily buy it knowing that I’m supporting a small business in my local community. The same goes for antique vendors or garage sales.
    I personally like to find as many things as I can “in the wild” instead of purchasing them online. I enjoy the thrill of hunting and finding something, especially when I get a good deal on it! I’ll never forget finding a copy of the Disney Channel Original Movie Motocrossed for $1 at a thrift store in Joshua Tree, California. That being said, some things are very, very hard to find in the wild especially now that many corporate thrift store and resellers seek out high-value items to sell online. Unless you’re willing to wait to find something rare, you may have to purchase it online.
    Movies & TV
    Betamax and VHS tapes: You may find these for as low as $1 at thrift stores or as high as $100 online for a very rare tape. The condition of the tape and case, whether or not the tape is open, sealed or watermarked, and playback quality all impact a tape’s price. You can expect to typically pay $3-8 for most tapes. Tapes that were produced towards the end of VHS production in the early 2000s can fetch extremely high prices online, which is why a VHS of Napoleon Dynamite (2004) may be $50 online while a VHS of Titanic (1998) is usually never more than $5. Some extremely rare tapes will sell for hundreds or dollars or even over $1,000! The most expensive tape I’ve purchased online is the Disney Channel Original Movie Cadet Kelly for $100 and the most expensive tape I’ve purchased in-person is Haggard for $80. As you start collecting, you’ll get a sense of what does and does have high value among collectors. Sorry, Classic Disney clamshells are about as much of a goldmine as Beanie Babies!
    DVDs/Blu-ray/4K - Grouping these together isn’t necessarily fair because they all have different price points. DVDs will be less expensive than Blu-rays which will be less expensive than Ultra High-Definition Blu-rays (commonly known as 4K). Box sets will be more expensive than single discs, as will deluxe or special editions such as director’s cuts or steelbooks. You can typically find discs for anywhere from $3 to $5 at thrift stores. Many DVDs and Blu-rays are still actively produced or re-released by niche labels like Criterion, Shout Factory, Vinegar Syndrome, etc. Out-of-print titles or titles that have never been made available on streaming (up until recently 28 Days Later was a perfect example) could fetch a high price
    LaserDiscs - Similarly to their smaller counterparts, the price of LaserDiscs is often influenced by their exclusivity. Common mainstream films like Jurassic Park or Twister can typically be found for $5-$15 at antique stores and record stores. Box sets, deluxe editions, rare or cult films, and films that are not available for streaming often fetch higher prices. Japanese imports are often highly prized by LaserDisc collectors as many had unique cover designs or alternate titles. A Japanese import of Disney’s controversial Song of the South (1946), which has never been released on home media in the United States and possibly never will be, sells for about $120 online.
    Music
    Note: The price point of music varies wildly across format much more dramatically than films and TV shows. Your best bet for determining whether or not something is fairly priced is to use a resource like Discogs to check the average sale price.
    Vinyl - Many factors influence the price point of vinyl that are far too numerous to list here. Key things include pressing information (first pressing versus later reissues), condition of both the jacket and the vinyl, label variations or special editions, and packaging. I highly recommend visiting your local record store and getting to know the staff and regulars who are often fonts of knowledge when it comes to building up your collection.
    Cassettes - Most cassettes are sold for under $5, and you can sometimes find them for $1 and under at thrift stores and garage sales. Similarly to all of the other media types listed so far, several factors influence a cassette’s price. Sealed tapes, tapes from indie, punk, or underground labels, playback condition, and cultural nostalgia often influence a tape’s value. When Kate Bush’s “Running Up that Hill” played during a pivotal moment in Season X of Stranger Things, her album Hounds of Love instantly shot up in value. At its height, the tape was selling for over $100. I wound up finding it at a record store in Las Vegas for about $30.
    Cassettes have become so popular again that even modern artists have started releasing their music on cassette. Most record stores have a section for new cassette releases or you can often buy directly from the artist’s website. Even Barnes and Noble sells some new cassettes!
    CDs - Despite the popularity of music streaming like Spotify, Apple Music, and YouTube, CDs are still very common and likely one of the first forms of physical media you will encounter. Most retailers like Barnes and Noble still sell CDs. Older albums that may no longer be in print can commonly be found at thrift stores and record stores. Similarly to the previously mentioned formats, several factors influence a CD’s price, but you can typically find used CDs for $1-$5. Nostalgia and rarity have a huge impact on a CD’s price. I’ve been on the hunt for the Flight of the Navigator original soundtrack for years. I’ve never seen it in the wild and it’s never been listed online for under $100! Why? Beats me!
    Books
    This is another format that varies wildly across collections. You typically see the following types of book collections:
  • Vintage or mass market paperbacks
  • Hardcover editions
  • Special editions such as signed books or first printings

    • I primarily collect children’s books from the 1980s and 1990s, like Goosebumps, the Babysitter’s Club, Point Horror, and other series. Price points are all over the place for these and I have some strong opinions about how much a vintage mass market paperback should cost. Most of these books sell for under $10, often closer to $3-$5 per book, as it should be. However, some series like Gilmore girls, Fear Street Seniors, or Goosebumps Series 2000 sell for much more - anywhere from $15 to $100 and up! This is largely due to three factors: Nostalgia-driven demand caused by the resurgence or reboot of a series, the death of a key actor from a movie or show, and the introduction of new fans Scarcity caused by limited initial print runs which makes a very finite supply Platform-driven inflation - many listings from sites like Thriftbooks rely on algorithmic pricing based on the number of copies available and number of people interested. This may result in an inflated price that trickles down to other sellers who list high and set a perceived market value
    To drive this home with a real world example: I had the original four Gilmore girls novels that were published in the early 2000s. I bought them for about $5 a piece with my paycheck from Border’s and at some point in the intervening 20 years, I lost my original copies. Imagine my surprise when I went online to repurchase them only to find that they were selling for $50-$75 each! Imagine my further surprise when a family member found 3 out of the 4 found at a local library book sale for $1 a piece! I’ve been watching listings for the one book I have left to find and they’ve sat steadily for over a year because their perceived market value is too high. If a principle actor from the show were to pass away or a reboot was announced, those books would likely sell overnight at their high price points or be driven up even further.
    Similarly to Discogs, you can check the average price of a book you may be interested using sites like eBay or Thriftbooks. Keep in mind though that an item is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it! Do not let the fear of missing out or a fabricated sense of urgency push you into spending more than you are comfortable with on an item! Most of these things are truly not one-of-a-kind.
    Okay, I Bought My First Item. How Do I Play It?
    Betamax and VHS Tapes:
    Betamax and VHS may look alike, but they require two different devices, both of which are commonly called a videocassette recorder (VCR). A Betamax VCR is often called a Betamax player. VCRs process an analog signal format that is specific to the region in which the player was manufactured: NTSC - North America, Japan, South Korea PAL - Most of Europe, Australia, parts of Asia and Africa SECAM - France and Russia
    Most VCRs are not multi-standard which means a US-manufactured NTSC VCR will not play an Australian-manufactured PAL tape. There are video converters commercially available, but a good rule of thumb is to only buy tapes and hardware in the same format region.
    Both Betamax players and VCRs require a composite analog video (yellow) and audio (red and white) RCA cord to send an analog signal from the player to your TV. Be sure to check whether or not your TV has RCA inputs. Many newer Smart TVs do not. You can purchase a RCA-to-HDMI converter which will plug into one of the HDMI ports on your TV and will convert the analog signal to digital.
    For LaserDisc:
    LaserDiscs are interesting because they combine analog and digital technology. The video is encoded using frequency modulation and pressed onto a 12-inch disc that looks like a giant CD. Most LaserDiscs include digital audio tracks, however early titles often only contain analog audio. Some enthusiasts believe this is the best way to watch a movie.
    Similarly to Betamax and VHS tapes, LaserDiscs and their players are not multi-standard which means a US-manufactured NTSC player will not play an European-manufactured PAL LaserDisc.
    Nearly all LaserDisc players output through RCA connectors (yellow for video, red and white for stereo audio) just like VCRs, which means you will need a TV with RCA inputs or a RCA-to-HDMI converter. Some discs require flipping or switching sides mid-film, unless your player has an “auto side-flip” feature.
    Note: While LaserDiscs are not particularly expensive, the machines to play them can run upwards for $500 or more. If you are just getting started with collecting physical media, you may want to start with another audiovisual format.
    For DVDs and Blu-ray:
    DVDs and Blu-rays share similar packaging and terminology, but they are unique formats. All Blu-ray players can play DVDs, but not all DVD players can play Blu-rays. In fact, most can’t. This has to do with something called “backwards compatibility.” DVDs were introduced in the 1990s and dominated the market for nearly 20 years. Blu-rays became much more prevalent heading into the 2010s. Since most people already owned large DVD collections when Blu-rays became mainstream, companies designed Blu-ray players to also read standard DVDs.
    Why is it called ‘Blu-ray’? DVD players use a red laser to read the data on DVD discs. The longer wavelength means it cannot penetrate the more densely packed data on a Blu-ray disk, which has to be read by a blue-violet laser.
    Most Blu-ray players use HDMI outputs which make it easy to plug in to a Smart TV. Some DVD players have HDMI outputs but older models will require RCA connectors just like VCRs. If your TV does not have RCA inputs, you can purchase a RCA-to-HDMI converter which will plug into one of the HDMI ports on your TV.
    Cassette Tapes:
    Cassettes tapes require a cassette player. There are multiple options at all sizes and price points, from a classic Walkman to a boombox to an integrated stereo system with a cassette, CD, and record player combined in a single unit.
    Walkmans and other portable cassette players often seem broken due to dried or broken internal belts that are relatively easy to replace. If you are comfortable with tinkering, you may be able to find a great deal on a classic Walkman being sold “for parts or repair” that just requires a simple fix. If you’d like to get started with a ready-to-use option, you can find meticulously refurbished Walkmans online through sites like Retrospekt or eBay. I occasionally post my own restored Walkmans on my Instagram, so be sure to check there too!
    CDs:
    Similarly to cassette players, CDs require a CD player which may be standalone, portable like a Discman, or integrated into stereo systems. CD players are still produced today and are widely available secondhand. Used models often work without issue, but I recommend inspecting the battery compartment for corrosion. You can easily clean the battery compartment and the laser lens with some high purity isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth.
    Portable cassette and CD players require headphones or some kind of external audio source. You can purchase a bluetooth converter to plug into your device and pair with wireless headphones, but for the full retro effect, a set of over-ear headphones is ideal. Since headphones are worn close to the face and are difficult to sanitize thoroughly, I recommend you purchase these new.
    Many cars still include CD players built into the dashboard, though this is slowly being phased out in newer models. In my opinion, nothing beats driving down the highway with the windows down and your favorite CD playing. Using the same bluetooth adapter for wireless headphones, there are ways to sync a Walkman or Discman to a newer car. This has quite a few moving parts, so just remember to wait until you’re safely stopped to change a tape or CD.
    Vinyl Records:
    Vinyl records require a turntable (also called a record player) which reads analog audio pressed into the vinyl using a stylus, cartridge, and tonearm. There is an entire culture dedicated to record collecting, which often results in fierce debates about equipment. For every 1,000 collectors there will be 1,000 different opinions on the best way to play records. Nothing beats befriending your local record shop owner, but check out some recommended resources below for great information on how to get started selecting your first system.
    Quick Note: There is nothing wrong with listening to records on a Crossley suitcase record player or other “entry level” turntable. People are very passionate about collecting physical media and may try to shame you for listening on what they would call a subpar system, but the entire point of collecting is for YOU. Do you enjoy it? Do you like how it looks? Does it make you happy? That’s all that matters!
    Storage & Cataloging
    Proper storage and cataloging are essential for preserving your physical media. Whether you’re collecting for archival, aesthetic, or nostalgic reasons, the conditions in which you store your collections and the systems you use to track them will have a big impact on their longevity (and whether or not you wind up buying duplicate something!).
    Sunlight, Temperature, and Humidity As something that exists in the real world, physical media is vulnerable to environmental degradation. Long-term exposure to direct sunlight will fade artwork on slipcases or book spines, cause plastic to warp, and break down adhesives over time. Sunlight can also accelerate the oxidation of optical media or cause cassette shells and cases to become yellowed and brittle. To the fullest extent possible, keep collections out of direct sunlight.
    Physical media is also susceptible to damage from heat and humidity. Mold and mildew can impact all types of physical media, so avoid basements, attics, garages, or any location where moisture and temperature may fluctuate dramatically.
    A good rule of thumb is if a space isn’t comfortable for you to sit and read, listen to, or watch your physical media, it’s probably not a suitable spot for long term storage of your physical media.
    Playback Equipment Maintenance One of the unspoken fears in the media archive community isn’t the loss of physical media, it’s the loss of the systems needed to access them. The resurgence of physical media in popular culture has led to the production of new cassette and CD players, but VCRs stopped being manufactured in XXXX and are not likely to be produced brand new again. The same goes for Betamax and LaserDisc players, and as users are pushed more and more towards streaming, we will likely eventually see the end of DVD and Blu-ray player production. Media longevity doesn’t matter if the equipment used to access it become inaccessible. The best way to avoid that is to take good care of your equipment.
    Clean playback heads every 10-20 hours of use. You can often find unused VCR head cleaners at thrift or antique stores, and there are DIY options on YouTube.
    Replace rubber belts and pinch rollers if needed, especially if a device is slow, squeaking, or seems non-responsive.
    Avoid leaving tapes and discs inside machines for extended periods. This can cause tension, warping, and binding which will damage both your media and equipment.
    Store equipment unplugged when not in regular use to avoid voltage surges and power supply degradation.
    Keep a small toolkit of cotton swabs, isopropyl alcohol (90%+), and spare belts on hand. Alternately, there are still some services who will repair and clean your equipment or media. Research local electronics repair shops, ask your local record store owner, or check out online options like Retrospekt [INSERT MORE].
    Cataloging I would be a bad archivist if I didn’t stress the importance of cataloging and tracking your collections. In fact, I am a bad archivist considering I’ve accidentally purchased duplicate, and in some cases triplicate, of something because I haven’t properly tracked my collections.
    Cataloging can be done by hand such as in a notebook or binder, or digitally using tools like a spreadsheet or online database. There is no right or wrong way to catalog your system, it’s whatever works best for you!
    I use Discogs to catalog my music collection, and I have the app installed on my phone. This makes it easy to look up titles as I’m browsing to make sure I don’t already have it, and I can price-check to see whether or not a store is offering a fair price.
    I track my VHS, book, and other physical media collections using Google sheets. I also have the Google sheets app installed on my phone which makes it easy to pull up and check whether or not I have a title.
    What information should I track? At the very least, you should take note of the title and format (VHS, CD, LP, etc.) of your collection. You may also want to note:
  • Author / Artist
  • Release Date
  • Edition / Pressing / Print Run
  • Publisher / Label / Studio
  • Condition (including grading scale if using)
  • Provenance (where you got the item and when)
  • Price paid
  • Location / Shelf ID
  • Special Features / Inserts / Annotations

    • See below for a snapshot of my tracking systems. For books, I like to track the series, title, author, publication date, condition (using a scale of great, good, fair, or poor) and any notes such as if the book is a first printing or has any kind of special inserts. I sometimes expand upon the condition in my notes about why I ranked something the way I did, such as a first printing with writing inside that I rated as fair.
    Where Can I Learn More?
    There are tons of online resources and creators dedicated to collecting, preserving, and enjoying physical media! Here are a few of my favorites:
    Movies and TV:
    Music:
    Books:
    While this guide does not cover every possible format for physical media that you may encounter, it should help serve as a good launch point for starting your collection. I hope you find it useful! Tag me on social media @k.d.kemp to share your collection.
    Feeling generous? Buy me a coffee! Feeling ultra generous? Check out my wishlist! © K.D. Kemp 2025. All rights reserved.

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